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British Journal of Healthcare and Medical Research - Vol. 9, No. 3

Publication Date: June, 25, 2022

DOI:10.14738/jbemi.93.12570. Cynthia, G., Fachrial, E., & Lister, I. N. E. (2022). The Biorevitalization Effect of Serum Containing Rose Apple Leaf Extract on the

Parameters of Premature Skin Aging. British Journal of Healthcare and Medical Research, 9(3). 228-248.

Services for Science and Education – United Kingdom

The Biorevitalization Effect of Serum Containing Rose Apple Leaf

Extract on the Parameters of Premature Skin Aging

Gabriella Cynthia

Department of Biomedical Sciences, Faculty of Medicine

Universitas Prima Indonesia, Medan, Indonesia

https://orcid.org/0000-0001-9640-0911

Edy Fachrial

Laboratory of Molecular Biology, Faculty of Medicine

Universitas Prima Indonesia, Medan, Indonesia

https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5237-5803

I. Nyoman Ehrich Lister

Department of Medical Sciences, Faculty of Medicine

Universitas Prima Indonesia, Medan, Indonesia

https://orcid.org/0000-0003-1325-5208

ABSTRACT

Rose apple (Syzygium jambos) is known for its antioxidants and could potentially

be used as an anti-aging cosmetic. This study reported the potential of rose apple

leaf extract as a skin serum for the biorevitalization- with improvement based on

pigmentation, wrinkles, pore, and sensitivity parameters in the skin of women aged

30 to 40. The skin serum was formulated with various concentrations of 5%, 10%,

and 15% of rose apple leaf extract. The Pretest-Posttest with Control Group Design

were conducted by measuring skin condition with the API-100 Aram Huvis

Innovation Skin Analysis System. Data analyses using the Kruskal-Wallis’s test and

Mann-Whitney’s test. The phytochemical contents of rose apple leaf extracts

showed alkaloids, flavonoids, saponins, phenol as gallic acid, and tannic acid, which

function as antioxidants that is comparable to vitamin C with IC50 of up to 7.29%.

Experimental data showed that rose apple leaf extract affects skin biorevitalization

based on reduction in pore size, skin pigmentation, and sensitivity parameters. This

study strongly suggests the potential of rose apple leaf extract as an anti-aging

ingredient to prevent premature skin aging.

Keywords: syzygium jambos, premature aging, pore, melanin, sensitivity

INTRODUCTION

The development of skin revitalization methods, i.e., recovery after any damage (including

aging) has increased in recent years [1]. Sunray exposure is often considered a major cause of

skin damage by initiating reactive oxygen species (ROS) [2]. It can interfere with protein; fatty

acids and saccharides causing oxidative damage [3] leading to a degeneration of skin collagen

and ultimately signs of premature aging in the skin. Aging is related to morphological changes,

which include loss of skin elasticity, increased wrinkling, uneven pigmentation, dryness, and

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Cynthia, G., Fachrial, E., & Lister, I. N. E. (2022). The Biorevitalization Effect of Serum Containing Rose Apple Leaf Extract on the Parameters of

Premature Skin Aging. British Journal of Healthcare and Medical Research, 9(3). 228-248.

URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.14738/jbemi.93.12570

roughness [4][5]. Topical formulations have recently attracted a lot of attention and interest as

a method of medication delivery to the human skin. The current approach in skin protection to

reduce the rate of skin aging is the topical use of plant extract containing phenolics and

antioxidants [6].

Rose apple (Syzygium jambos) has been used as a traditional medicinal plant as a diuretic agent,

for rheumatism, toothache, gastrointestinal disease, and fever as well as its antibacterial and

anti-inflammatory effects [7]. A report showed the presence of flavonoid compounds, anacardic

acid, myricetin, gallic acid squalene, and ursolic acid from S. jambos extract [8]. Other

researchers studied the chemical profile of S. jambos and discovered 17 substances such as

flavonol glycosides and flavones, as well as ellagitannins and phenolic acids. Anacardic acid has

also been linked to antibacterial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer properties.

Furthermore, ethanol extract and three components, myricetin, myricitrin, and gallic acid,

shown strong antioxidant activity with IC50 values ranging from 0.8-1.9 g/ml, equivalent to

vitamin C, the reference antioxidant agent. Furthermore, S. jambos leaf extract containing

ursolic acid and myricitrin components effectively reduced the production of inflammatory

cytokines IL-8 and TNF- by up to 99%. Rose apple leaf extract has also shown promising

antioxidant activity in different experimental models [9]. Quantitative tannin content was also

shown in rose apple bark extract with water and acetone as solvents of 77% and 83% [10].

Another study stated that the tannin content was also found to be very high in rose apple bark

at 2.5 mg/ml, in seeds at 1.9 mg/ml while in leaves 1.4 mg/ml in acetone solvent [11]. The

tannin concentration of the tropical plant’s lower stems is relatively high, approximately 16%.

Extracts of S. jambos' bark, leaves, and seeds have a strong inhibitory impact on the

development of S. aureus and E. coli [12]. Squalane, ursolic acid, gallic acid, myricetin, myricetin,

and anacardic acid have all been extracted from the ethanolic extract of S. jambos leaves [7].

Another study discovered that S. jambos ethanolic stem bark extract and extracted

triterpenoids such as friedelin, -amyrin acetate, betulinic acid, and lupeol [13]. The seeds are

used to treat diarrhea and even diarrhea accompanied by fever, dysentery, sore throat,

diabetes, and infectious diseases. A decoction of the bark is given to relieve asthma and

bronchitis [14].

Cosmetic products with natural ingredients have been widely developed in Indonesia and are

more attractive to the market. There is a higher demand for cosmetic products that can prevent

or inhibit the premature aging process. Studies have shown that anti-aging cosmetics are

becoming a trend for consumers over the age of 25 to prevent premature aging [15][16].

Several benefits of anti-aging products are supplying antioxidants to skin tissue, stimulating the

regeneration process of skin cells, maintaining skin moisture and elasticity, stimulating the

production of collagen and glycosaminoglycans, and protecting the skin from ultraviolet

damage. The benefits of anti-aging skincare include preventing degenerative damage that

causes the skin to look dull and wrinkled and making the skin look healthy and bright [17].

One of the cosmetic dosage forms that have recently gained exponential development and have

high popularity in the realm of skincare is serum. The serum has low viscosity and is

categorized as an emulsion preparation [18]. The serum itself can be processed using two bases,

namely water, and oil bases. The serum has the advantage that it has a high concentration of

active ingredients so that the effect is more quickly absorbed by the skin, can provide a more

comfortable skin feel and better spread on the surface of the skin. Serums contain a higher

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British Journal of Healthcare and Medical Research (BJHMR) Vol 9, Issue 3, June - 2022

Services for Science and Education – United Kingdom

percentage of natural active substances that are good for the skin compared to other products

such as face creams. Serum can also be used by people of various ages, parents, and young

people/teenagers. Nowadays cosmetic serum is just a commercial term in the cosmetic world,

known for its low viscosity with a high concentration because it contains more bioactive

ingredients with lesser solvent [19].

So far, there are no anti-aging cosmetic products, especially serum, which is made of the natural

ingredient, the rose apple extract. This research aims to determine the potential of rose apple

ethanol leaf extract on the effect of skin biorevitalization- namely improvement of skin

parameters in terms of pigmentation, wrinkles, pore, and sensitivity on the skin of women aged

30-40 with signs of premature aging. For this reason, it is necessary to apply bioactive

antioxidants that are applied topically to prevent premature skin aging [20].

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The research method used Pretest-Post test Control Group Design involves sampling and sample

processing, making simplicia, extract making, quantitative phytochemical screening,

antioxidant activity test, formulating anti-aging serum and anti-aging activity test by measuring

skin condition with the API-100 Aram Huvis Innovation Skin Analysis System and data analysis

with the Kruskal-Wallis’s test and Mann-Whitney’s test. The independent variable is the ethanol

extract of rose apple in serum formulations, the dependent variable is the biorevitalizing effect

of the ethanol extract of rose apple on the improvement of skin conditions in terms of

pigmentation, wrinkle, pore, and sensitivity to the skin. 24 volunteers in this study are women

aged 30-40 with signs of premature aging on their skin.

The tools used in this research include glassware, juicer, incubator, autoclave, analytical

balance, filter paper No.1, pH meter, centrifuge, rotary evaporator, Brookfield viscometer, glass

serum container, stirring rod, and Ultraviolet-spectrophotometer visible (Shimadzu 1800),

analytical balance (Precisa), rotary vaporizer (IKA®), sonicator (Branson 1800), test tube

(Iwaki), separating funnel (Iwaki), Erlenmeyer (Iwaki), porcelain crucible, vaporizer,

ultraviolet lamp (Camag), measuring flask (Iwaki), beaker glass (Iwaki), pipette (Iwaki), oven

(Memmert), Whatman filter paper No. 42, pH paper and API-100 Aram Huvis Innovation Skin

Analysis instrument.

The testing material used was rose apple ethanol extract. The chemicals used in this study were

aqua dest, 70% ethanol, xanthan gum, glycerin, sodium benzoate, and potassium sorbate, 96%

ethanol, 30% ethanol, n-hexane p.a, acetone, distilled water, silica gel 60 F254 20 x 20 cm,

quercetin, gallic acid, catechins, and all reagents purchased from Merck: aluminum chloride

(AlCl3), chloroform (CHCl3), methanol (CH3OH), ethyl acetate (C4H8O2), hydrochloric acid (HCl),

glacial acetic acid solution, ninhydrin, -naphthol, nitric acid (HNO3), sulfuric acid (H2SO4),

rhodamine B, zinc powder (Zn), magnesium (Mg) powder, boric acid (H3BO3) powder, oxalic

acid (C2H2O4) powder, vanillin sulfuric acid, vanillin hydrochloric acid, iron (III) chloride (FeCl3)

salt, gelatin, ether (C2H5)20, iodine, potassium iodide (KI), potassium permanganate (KMnO4),

mercury (II) chloride (HgCl2), bismuth nitrate (Bi(NO3)3), picric acid (C6H3N3O7), ammonium

molybdate (NH4)6MO7O24), acetic acid anhydride, Baljet's solution, sodium hydroxide (NaOH),

n-butanol (C4H10O), diethyl ether, and petroleum ether.