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European Journal of Applied Sciences – Vol. 11, No. 1

Publication Date: January 25, 2023

DOI:10.14738/aivp.111.13738.

Rahman, M. M., Reza, A., Rabea, N, Dola, D. R. & Farin, F. (2023). Constructing and Evaluating the Features of Novelty Yarn Made

from Denim Cut Waste. European Journal of Applied Sciences, 11(1). 25-39.

Services for Science and Education – United Kingdom

Constructing and Evaluating the Features of Novelty Yarn Made

from Denim Cut Waste

Mohammad Mizanur Rahman

Assistant Professor & Head, Bgmea University of Fashion & Technology.

Md. Alimur Reza

Lecturer, Bgmea University of Fashion & Technology.

Nishat Rabea

Lecturer, Bgmea University of Fashion & Technology

Dilshat Rubia Dola

Lecturer, Bgmea University of Fashion & Technology

Faijun Farin

Lecturer, Green University of Bangladesh

ABSTRACT

By turning the apparel industry denim cut waste into mélange yarn, the study aims

to help the sector get toward zero waste. It is crucial to create already-available

manufacturing techniques that are more environmentally friendly. Being

conscious of environmental issues, it is a rapidly expanding section of the fashion

industry. The major issue facing the enormous denim business is caused by vast

amounts of secondhand waste, unsalable stock, and denim waste that needs to be

treated from scratch. In order to prepare cotton for the production of recycled

cotton yarns, recycled cotton fiber was first extracted from denim cut waste using

mechanical procedures (sorting & opening - extraction of fiber, sliver

development, drawing, roving, spinning). The fiber was dyed without going

through the dyeing process, and recycled cotton was used to create the yarn. The

yarn underwent tests to determine its strength (153 lb./lea, TPI 17, count 8 Ne),

applicability as a raw material for clothing, and more. According to other findings,

it is a high-quality complete yarn because mélange yarn, for various ratios,

Because there is no blending of two different fibers, 100% cotton yarn has

produced the best results. This method of recovering denim cut waste in the textile

manufacturing sector today is efficient and sustainable.

Keywords: Denim Cut Waste, Recycled Mélange Yarn, Sustainability, Ecofriendly

INTRODUCTION

The word "denim" comes from the title of a texture that was to begin with made in the city of

Nîmes, France, by the André family. It was initially called serge de Nîmes but the title was before

long shortened to "denim". Denim could be a strong cotton twill material in which the weft

passes beneath two or more twist threads.

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European Journal of Applied Sciences (EJAS) Vol. 11, Issue 1, January-2023

Services for Science and Education – United Kingdom

The development of yarn processing is focused on the early nineteenth century, when ring- spinning made this physically possible. Taking after that, numerous specialized changed were

accomplished, and discretionary prepare strategies were utilize to form the foremost viable

and satisfactory yarn handling system. (1) Yarn may be a long nonstop span of twisted strands

that can be utilized to form materials, weaving, sewing, weaving, weaving, or rope fabricating.

There are a few yarns based on their generation methods, such as spun yarn, favor yarn, bend

less yarn, slub yarn, mélange or dyed yarn, and etc. Mechanical advancements have helped the

material industry within the generation of a few assortments of favor yarns. In favor yarns, any

expecting stylish irregularity or intrusion is embedded, either in color or yarn structure, or

both. Mélange yarns are well-known for their eye-catching color and appearance among favor

yarns (2). Invented in the 1980s, Indians were the first to produce the mélange yarn. It is

distinguished by the joining of more than two strands. (3) The term mélange is commonly given

to yarns created by the single or by the combination of two characteristic or engineered

filaments, in any case of whether they are of the same kind. Be that as it may, the color and kind

of fiber utilized shifts. Cotton mélange yarns are spun from a extend of different colored cotton

filaments utilizing Ring Outline or Rotor turning machines. The mixing of colored and undyed

filaments in shifted degrees may be a common strategy for making an assortment of favor yarns

(4).

Moreover, mélange yarn may be classified into two fundamental sorts: Mixed Mélange Yarn:

This sort of yarn is made up of strands of different beginnings, either normal or engineered,

that are mixed/blended in a certain proportion, such as PC (Polyester Cotton mix) 50:50, PC

60:40, PV 70:30, and CVC 50:50. Non-Blended Mélange Yarn: In this circumstance, filaments of

the same sort or beginning with shifted colors and extents are utilized to fabricate the yarn, for

illustration, 100 percent cotton colored yarn, 100 % jute (5).

Mélange yarn is competent of appearing a few colors on one yarn, giving it wealthy colors.

Materials delivered from such yarns have a few hazy cyclic effects.

Mélange yarn is competent of appearing a few colors on one yarn, giving it wealthy colors.

Materials delivered from such yarns have a few hazy cyclic effects. (6) Mélange yarns are all

inclusive since of their recognizing and a phenomenal see within the cloth. The wavy like see as

a result of the blending of filaments and the number of color tones since of the mixing of diverse

filaments makes it recognizable and attractive (7).

Mélange yarn’s advertise share over customary yarn is developing day by day (8). Mélange yarn

is commonly connected at weft weaving machines as well as twist sewing machines, a run of V- bed sewing machines, and cone winding machines. Mélange yarn is relevant to clothing

materials, casual wear, sportswear, shirts, trade suits, socks, and all sports clothing things, as

well as bed sheets, towels, embellishing textures, and other products for domestic textures.

Mélange yarn is famous for all good reasons. It can provide a wide range of shades, some shades

maybe just 0.5%, and some can even be one hundred percent (9). It also makes the fiber dyeing,

color matching, and fiber blending processes easy. It’s the yarn of the modern textile industry.

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Rahman, M. M., Reza, A., Rabea, N, Dola, D. R. & Farin, F. (2023). Constructing and Evaluating the Features of Novelty Yarn Made from Denim Cut

Waste. European Journal of Applied Sciences, 11(1). 25-39.

URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.14738/aivp.111.13738

It’s an environment-friendly yarn made of organic elements. It is dyed before the spinning

process, which ultimately preserves energy and adds to environmental safety.

Different proportions of colored fibers of various colors and textures can spin into mélange

yarns. Through the benefits of power-saving, conserving water, as well as reducing pollution in

their processing, mélange yarns are becoming increasingly common in manufacturers (10).

Mélange yarns are also a trend in the fashion industry.

Now a day, there is an extensive market possibility for fancy yarns compared to conventional

yarns that stay more eye-catching (11). At a reasonable cost, a buyer gets a blend of various

colors on the same fabric and high tensile strength and a great color holding capacity. An

enduring brightness and opulence in the fabric color can be achieved through mélange yarns.

These fancy yarns have fabric beauty advantages and could be applied in informal wear,

sportswear ties business suits, socks, and all kinds of textile items, as well as bed sheets, towels,

ornamental fabrics, and other home-made fabrics (4).

Denim is produced and used in large amounts, and the production, use and disposal of denim

has a huge environmental impact. A comprehensive summary of the impact of denim was

published by the International Solid Waste Association, highlighting the environmental aspects

and opportunities to reduce environmental impact. Cutting waste in the manufacture of denim

jeans is between 10% and 15%. The majority of cutting waste is recycled by unraveling and

recycling the fibers in the manufacture of insert yarns (weft direction). Because cutting waste

is generated prior to washing and finishing, the dark blue (indigo) hue also appears on the weft

threads.

When jeans are turned inside out, the exterior hue is a darker blue than the pale blue inside,

which is due to weft yarns composed entirely of virgin fibers. The reuse of cutting waste has no

effect on the quality of jeans (12). Denim, like all textiles, has several waste recycling options

(13). So, recycling of denim cut waste which is produced in the cutting section and is the best

option to reduce environmental pollution

LITERATURE REVIEW

Mélange yarn is comparable to conventional gray yarn. The yarn is blended with 10% colored

viscose in 90% cotton fiber. The fibers need to get prepared and the first step is to dye the

virgin cotton. In the processing section, fibers are opened to flock form using conventional

opening machines and, disperse dyes, reactive dyes, and VAT dyes are used for fiber coloration.

After fiber coloration, they are pressed and come back to the spinning section. The fibers

packed in the form of bales are once more opened, gently mixed, and stored in a ventilated

room for 24 h for conditioning. Then after the flock of fibers are pressed together and assigned

with a lot number. (14) The virgin fibers and recycled fibers are also used as raw material for

mélange yarn manufacturing. The wastes incoming from garment and textile factories are

recycled and mixed with polyester and virgin cotton to produce mélange yarn. (15)

The first concern in the of mélange yarns is to align the shade according to the specific specimen

given by desired product. These fancy yarns have also fabric beauty advantages and could be

applied in informal wear, sportswear ties business suits, socks, and all kinds of textile items, as